In WABE’s “Tasty Stories of Atlanta” series, our food contributors, food historian Aquila McConnell and Chef Asata Reid bring us stories and recommendations from Atlanta’s diverse culinary landscape.
September is Hispanic and Latino Heritage Month, and Reid and McConnell prepared a themed banquet to discuss Hispanic and Latino food traditions and the many Atlanta restaurants that showcase their delights.
To start the conversation, McConnell outlined some useful distinctions: “Hispanic” identifies a person of Spanish culture or who has roots in a Spanish-speaking country. “Latinx” refers to someone of Latin American culture or with roots in a Latin American country. “Chicano” or “Chicana”: someone of Mexican-American heritage. The terms are not interchangeable and describe unique groups of communities with complex colonial histories and relationships with Native American cultures. With such a wide range of cultures represented in Hispanic and Latinx Heritage Month, our Tasty Stories guides decided to narrow today’s focus to the cuisines of Mexico and the Caribbean.
No discussion of America’s food history can begin without talking about corn. McConnell explained the fascinating, 10,000-year-old invention of corn — yes, indigenous farmers of southern Mexico invented the plant we know as corn – for curious fans of Mexican cuisine.
Its ancestor, the inedible wild grass teosinte, was cultivated over generations into the rainbow of varieties of edible corn that became the staple food of the land. “Modern scientists have tried to copy what these natives did, and they haven’t been able to do it successfully in the way that these natives turned this grass into corn,” McConnell said.
Among countless other applications, the Mayans and Aztecs used their versatile corn to make a finely ground dough called time. As early as 8000 BC, these cultures were known to pack meat and vegetables in dough, which they wrapped in leaves and cooked in hot ashes. The delicious rolled corn patties remain ubiquitous and beloved to this day, known as tamales. Equally ancient is the tortilla, invented by the Aztecs as an easily transportable and nutritious cornbread.
Local Caribbean and Mexican food recommendations from Chef Asata Reid:
super bread, Ponce City Market – “Mofongo is a Puerto Rican national dish, and is mashed greens and plantains topped with sofrito or pork, and a perfect example of this fusion cuisine… Those mofongo bowls just stole my heart. It’s so top notch here, and you can get it with roast pork or chicken sofrito or shrimp ajillo; everything is delicious.”
Sandwich shop in Havana, Buford Highway – Established in 1976, the first full-menu Cuban restaurant in Atlanta. “If you’re here, it’s for the sandwiches, the empanadas, the home-style Cuban dishes. This is honest and straightforward Cuban food, as wrapped in one’s abuela’s house, right down to the sweets and batidos – which are milkshakes if you haven’t had them.
Papi’s Cuban Grill, Midtown – “Standouts for me: Traditional Cuban yuca con mojo. For some reason, I love and crave that dish. The lechon asado plate—again, we’ve got that slow-roasted pork and the Rey’s Cuban sandwich.”
The Taco King, Buford Highway – “El Rey is exactly what comes to mind when someone says, ‘Hey, let’s go get some Mexican.’ Big plates, showcasing hospitality at its best. It’s not fancy, but it’s about the food…. fresh house-made tortillas and salsa, which is how I measure restaurant standard.”
homeland cuisine, Grant Park – “The patio is big and shady, and the bar represents tequila, lots of tequila and mezcal that is just authentic Mexican. They also have seasonal desserts, homemade flan and churros with ice cream… but what I really love about Roxana and Octavio, and this place, is the hospitality.”
Supreme Taco, Reynoldstown – “Each taco has a distinct flavor and personality. The al pastor has tender pork with charred edges and juicy pineapple. Carne asada has a nice depth and smokiness to it that you just don’t get everywhere. The aguachile features ceviche-style shrimp on a crisp tostada… the barbacoa has left, I’ll coin a word, ‘aromaticity’ from the consommé that the lamb is cooked with and it just lingers on your palette.”
Chef Reid’s favorite tomatillo salsa techniques:
– Pick fresh tomatoes, white onions (not sweet onions), garlic, cilantro, and limes, as well as fresh peppers like serrano or jalapeño, depending on your heat tolerance.
– Method 1: Put the tomatoes, onion, garlic and peppers in a pot with enough water to cover. Cook until the tomatoes are soft and light green. Use a slotted spoon or strainer to transfer the ingredients to a blender or food processor, saving the cooking liquid. Blend to your desired consistency, adding liquid to thin out as you blend. Add cilantro, lime and salt to taste. Pulse until well combined and serve.
– Method 2: Line a baking sheet with baking paper. Place the onion, tomatoes, garlic and peppers on the sheet, drizzle with olive oil and place under your oven set to “simmer” for about seven minutes; the tomatoes should be bubbling and charred well. Combine the boiled ingredients in a blender and blend to your desired consistency. Add cilantro, lime and salt to taste, toss and serve.
