If you’re planning a trip to Barbuda in the coming weeks, prepare for some serious flirting.
The mating season for the small island’s famous amorous frigatebirds begins around September and groups of males position themselves blowing their throats into a bright red balloon, waving their broad wings and flapping their beaks to attract the attention of transient women, create a spectacular show.
Antigua’s less visited sister is home to the second largest nesting area outside the Galapagos. The aptly named magnificent frigatebirds have been locally nicknamed “man o’ war” for their habit of robbing other birds in mid-flight for their freshly caught fish.
September marks five years since the 62-square-mile island was devastated by Hurricane Irma, thrusting the humble country into the front pages of newspapers around the world.
Today, the birds, like the Barbudans themselves, have largely recovered and visitors are delighted to discover a host of intriguing attractions that go far beyond the legendary pink sand beach.
This low-lying coral island is 30 miles northeast of Antigua and accessible by ferry, plane or helicopter charter. Loved for its quaint quiet charm, it offers a setting to step back in time amid an unspoiled landscape where deer, wild boar and donkeys roam free.
However, a word of caution. While wildlife is abundant, accommodation is rather sparser.
There’s a reason why tourism bosses, launching an official promo for Barbuda earlier this year, invited holidaymakers to come – not all at once.
Those wishing to spend more than a day here are advised to book in advance, given that some places close completely for the rainy months before reopening in November.
The luxury boutique hotel Barbuda Belle consists of eight suites and a penthouse, located on a 15-mile stretch of deserted beach. There are also Barbuda Cottages, an eco-friendly haven of rustic wooden properties on stilts, the recently built Historic Dulcina Apartments aimed at travelers on a budget, plus a host of small guesthouses.
Many people who flock here to enjoy a unique brush with nature choose camping. If sleeping under sweat-inducing polyester isn’t for you, step up to the glamping area at Frangipani, a remote retreat where you can sleep in a queen-sized bed in a log cabin complete with kitchen and outdoor shower .
orcross the island, some homes still bear the scars of Mother Nature’s wrath and cell phone signal remains spotty in certain parts, but homes and infrastructure have largely been restored.
Additionally, Barbuda has also been going through a construction boom, with a number of foreign heavyweight investors currently plowing dollars into high-end resorts aimed at attracting well-heeled visitors and part-time residents.
Some of the developments have not been without controversy. Many Barbudans feel that they pose a threat not only to the environment, but also to their long tradition of practicing communal land ownership. Others welcome the arrival of an economic injection and new employment opportunities.
One of the most interesting projects is led by Hollywood actor Robert De Niro and Australian billionaire James Packer. The pair are set to transform the derelict K Club – where Princess Diana vacationed in the months before her death – into a Nobu resort.
As food lovers know, Good friends star co-founded the successful Nobu chain, which now boasts 50 restaurants across the globe – including Barbuda.
Don’t expect the brilliance of its American counterparts here, though; this Nobu is Barbuda style with your toes in the sand. The restaurant, which opened in 2021, is a delightful mix of organic tones, grills and understated elegance, complemented by a wide range of Japanese dishes, sake, wine and cocktails.
The location is worth a stay just for the beach. Named after its most honored visitor, the mile-long crescent-shaped Princess Diana Beach offers ultra-seclusion and seasonal pink sand.
To experience the true local culture, eating in any of Barbuda’s small restaurants is an experience not to be missed.
At Wa’omoni in Codrington, Jackie Beazer cooks up a range of traditional dishes, including venison and mushroom burgers, plus tarts and strip puddings.
Claudette Beazer, whose shop is conveniently located near the fishing complex on the outskirts of town, is known for her delicious home cooking. Some residents also open their homes to diners who want a real taste of Barbuda.
While breakfast and lunch choices are plentiful, dinner options—with the exception of casual grills and bar meals—can be elusive in the off-season.
Uncle Roddy’s on Coral Group Bay is one of the most popular restaurants because of its beautiful location, wonderful beachfront location and variety of Caribbean and international food.
WBut Barbuda may lack the high-energy activities and nightlife of its regional neighbours, it’s an eco-tourism haven – a draw for surfers, hikers, birdwatchers and boaters.
Lagoons, creeks, mangrove swamps and mud flats create a variety of waterfowl habitats and dozens of bird species have been recorded here.
The natives have a deep respect for the natural world; many Barbudans can identify dozens of plants suitable for bush tea alone.
Residents will testify to quiet days spent picking sea grapes, fishing and exploring caves – and it’s easy to find someone willing to tell you about the latter. Those nearest Codrington are found at Two Foot Bay. In addition to the bats, crabs, iguanas and tropical birds that frequent the caves, one – Indian Cave – boasts petroglyphs left behind by the island’s First Peoples.
Other recommended sights include snorkeling at the Palaster Reef Marine Reserve, where you will not only be rewarded with live fish and the odd sea turtle, but also old shipwrecks.
Whatever the future holds for this quiet outpost that time once forgot and seems to be catching up to, there is no accounting for the indomitable spirit of the Barbudan people, displayed so bravely in the wake of Irma.
Guests are always warmly welcomed and quickly become like family. Perhaps one more reason why Princess Diana famously said Barbuda was the only place on earth that could find peace.
