Black Is Punk! Remembering Vivienne Westwood & Why Her Punk Aesthetic Resonates With Black Artists

In what seems like a constant and never-ending cycle, the fashion space has lost another heavyweight, Dame Vivienne Westwood (in fact, this year has gained several fashionistas; André Leon Talley (January 18), Thierry Mugler ( Jan. 23) and Issey Miyake (Aug. 5). The British designer played an important role in popularizing punk style within the fashion space and tirelessly championing originality, artistic expression and sustainability. From her tartan braids, a juxtaposition of baroque aesthetic with a tough punk edge and a soft romanticism — Westwood is fully cemented as one of fashion’s greatest disruptors, leaving behind an immeasurable legacy.

After news of her death circulated on fashion Twitter, I kept thinking about the long history of black musicians and their connection to Vivienne Westwood’s punk sensibility. Everyone from Lil’ Kim to Beyoncé has had a Westwood moment. And there must be an explanation for why it resonates so. Punk tends to be hard to reduce to a simple aspect (like, is it a genre, a style, a lifestyle?). But fundamentally, punk is a space of artistic and political experimentation, which I believe automatically speaks to the Black experience (“Fight The Power”, Hip-Hop as a musical genre and culture, etc.). “I think the Westwood brand still resonates with black musicians because of its overall design ethos in the spirit of challenging sartorial norms and challenging certain ideas that are forced upon them. That’s something that black people are up against every days”, says the fashion journalist Scarlett Newman.

And just like any other musical genre or major social movement, the history of punk is often told through a white lens. While it is difficult to pinpoint the exact origins of the genre, it is widely associated with the British Wave: The Sex Pistols, The Clash and The Damned. And a little shop called SEX (which is where Westwood enters punk history). But while angry white working-class folks were challenging the status quo across the pond, make no mistake that black musicians were breaking into the punk bandwagon, both in the UK and the US.

Punk is provocative. From the proto-punk offerings of Death, to the pervasive influence of DC’s hardcore punk band Bad Brains – black punk artists have always been there. As Newman echoes, “Blacks are quintessentially punk, in my opinion. We’re going to challenge the system through music and self-presentation, something that Vivienne Westwood’s clothing speaks directly to and was born as a result.”

This brings me back to Westwood. Her creations fueled the British punk movement and continue to fuel the same energy among artists today. From Cardi B wearing a signature Westwood corset to Pharrell and those sculptural hats, it’s clear that the Westwood brand still resonates with that angry, rebellious essence.

Ahead, see some of the ways Dame Westwood’s punk, sartorial legacy has permeated black pop culture and lives on.

01

Lil’ Kim always a fashion icon

As we all know, Lil’ Kim’s connection to fashion is forever. So it only makes sense that she chose to wear the ‘Queen of Sheba’ dress from Westwood’s FW95 ‘Vive la Cocotte’ collection to celebrate the release of her second studio album, The Notorious KIM.

02

Pharrell x Buffalo Hat

You couldn’t escape the look of this iconic hat in the ’00s. Pharrell brought the iconic Vivienne Westwood Buffalo hat from the 80s into the hip-hop ethos and fast fashion space. It was everywhere! This speaks to the influence and ability of rap cultural figures to make things trend.

03

Shine like a pearl?

Rihanna took the stage at the 2012 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show wearing an iconic custom Westwood corset (one of the brand’s signatures).

04

I also wanted The Westwood Muse

Doja Cat has organically become a muse of Westwood designer Andreas Kronthaler over the past few years, which only makes sense. Doja has been, since the dance, known for its quirky, avant-garde, slightly uncomfortable aesthetic, so wearing a Westwood S/S19′ look with a red chair on the head fits perfectly. From the 2020 AMAs to hosting the 2021 VMAs in 4 Andreas Kronthaler outfits for Westwood, to sitting front row at the brand’s bejeweled S/S23 show.

05

FKA Twigs The Collector

FKA Twigs and Vivienne Westwood only make sense when said in the same context. Twigs is the personification of the Westwood Ethos. She wore one of Westwood’s infamous Boucher-painted corsets to the 2019 Sundance Film Festival from her carefully curated archive of pieces.

06

Sza The Prom Queen

Like her friend and collaborator Doja, SZA has recently been an unofficial ambassador for Andreas Kronthaler for Westwood, choosing to channel the brand’s punk femme energy for big events like the 2021 Oscars and 2022 Met Gala.