Shelly-Ann Inniss talks to award-winning Barbadian chef Damian Leach about his passion for Caribbean cuisine and zero-waste cooking
At a restaurant by the sea, with fishing boats moored just offshore, diners are enjoying well-seasoned baked fish with local vegetables wrapped in banana leaves. Not far away, by the side of the road, a visiting family enjoys a richly flavored pineapple snack, exquisitely presented in a pineapple bowl. These are typical Caribbean experiences: from the use of seeds from production to grow crops and peels for serving and composting – nothing goes to waste.
What does zero-waste look like in a Caribbean context?
I believe the Caribbean has been doing some form of zero waste cooking for many years. The famous Barbados pudding and sauce is the perfect example. Everything is learned! Some people use the pig’s ears, tongue, legs (trotters), tail – even the blood is used for pudding.
Chicken is another animal with which we minimize losses. There’s more to it than just chest and legs. We make stepper chicken soup (legs), pickled stepper and fried chicken necks. In Barbados, the legendary Granny’s in Oistins has the best fried chicken necks.
Why is movement important to you?
As a chef and restaurateur, minimizing food waste is always a priority. It’s not just about being responsible and reducing waste, but also getting the most out of the food I paid for! I paid for all the broccoli. I didn’t just pay for pretty flowers. I paid for the trunk too, so why wouldn’t I want to find a use for them?
What does a sustainable food system look like to you?
Caribbean cuisine must begin with Caribbean produce. It’s not just the fruit and vegetables, but the local meat – black pot-bellied lamb is a favourite. I have a simple herb garden too, but my breadfruit tree is the thing I’m most proud of. It’s still small, but one day I’ll pick one and bake it with my kids.
What are your best tips for people wanting to try this?
The Caribbean has the same temperature all year round, so there will be plenty of vegetables. My favorites this time of year are breadfruit and mango. If you get the chance, try baking a loaf of bread on the beach with fresh red snapper, even in season. There is no need for dishes as the baked breadfruit skin is a perfect eco-friendly bowl. Honestly, although you can’t go wrong with fresh mango salsa, my favorite way to eat mangoes is marinated and eaten skin and all.
What is a good way to involve children?
Starting a home garden is the perfect thing to do with kids to keep them busy. Plus, they’re so proud of themselves when they taste something they helped grow from a tiny seed. I spent a lot of time as a little boy in the garden with my grandfather and to this day I have never tasted a cauliflower like the one we grew together.
Cocktail Kitchen Executive Chef Damian Leach is a culinary ambassador for Barbados and has promoted Barbadian cuisine around the globe.
